Golden Tooth serves grown-up pub dining in north London

What's happened

The Guardian’s Grace Dent reviews The Golden Tooth in north London, praising chef Matthew Scott and wine merchant Charlie Carr for maturing a pub dining concept with a refined menu, low-intervention wines and a focus on bold, comforting dishes.

What's behind the headline?

Analysis

The review frames The Golden Tooth as a progressive step for a pub that offers restaurant-level cooking, signaling a shift in how pubs can compete with standalone dining rooms.
It emphasizes a mature menu, a carefully curated wine list, and a balance between comfort and technique, suggesting a stable business model rather than a transient pop-up.
The piece underscores Scott’s evolution as a chef and Carr’s hospitality approach, positioning the venue as a benchmark for similar ventures.

Tone and Context

The writing is vivid and opinionated, yet anchored in specific dishes and descriptions, giving readers concrete takeaways.
It reflects a trend toward refined pub dining in London, with an emphasis on provenance and seasonality.

Implications for Readers

Food lovers might reassess pub dining as a destination for serious eating.
The piece hints at ongoing growth for the partnership and potential future openings.

How we got here

The piece follows The Guardian’s coverage of Matthew Scott and Charlie Carr’s projects, building on their earlier Papi venture while highlighting The Golden Tooth as a more grown-up, pub-style dining space.

Our analysis

Grace Dent, The Guardian: The Golden Tooth review highlights the refined pub-dining concept and the evolution of Scott and Carr’s collaboration, noting the strong wine program and standout tart. The Guardian piece positions The Golden Tooth within a trend of mature pub dining.

Go deeper

Will The Golden Tooth inspire other pubs to elevate their menus?
What are the standout wines on the low-intervention list?
How does this venue compare to Papi in atmosphere and price?