What's happened
On August 18, 2025, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky met US President Donald Trump at the White House, wearing a black suit-style jacket, a departure from his usual military attire. This sartorial change was noted and praised by Trump and right-wing reporter Brian Glenn, who had previously criticized Zelensky's attire. The meeting focused on peace talks amid ongoing war tensions.
What's behind the headline?
The Symbolism of Attire in Diplomacy
Zelensky's shift from military fatigues to a suit-style jacket at the White House meeting with Trump marks a strategic use of fashion diplomacy. His attire signals a nuanced balance between maintaining his wartime identity and adapting to Western diplomatic expectations. This sartorial choice likely aimed to soften previous tensions, as evidenced by the warmer reception from Trump and media figures who had earlier criticized him.
Power Dynamics and Image Management
The focus on Zelensky's clothing underscores the performative aspects of high-stakes diplomacy, especially when engaging with a mercurial figure like Trump. The White House's prior inquiry about Zelensky's attire reveals an awareness that image can influence political goodwill and negotiation atmospheres. Zelensky's refusal to wear a tie preserves his identity as a wartime leader, subtly asserting Ukraine's ongoing struggle.
Political Implications
Trump's public admiration for Zelensky's suit contrasts sharply with his earlier criticisms and aligns with his broader push for a peace deal that includes concessions unfavorable to Ukraine, such as abandoning NATO aspirations and Crimea claims. The meeting's cordial tone and discussions of security guarantees and a potential trilateral summit with Putin suggest a complex interplay of diplomacy, image, and political maneuvering.
Forecast
Zelensky's sartorial diplomacy will likely continue as a tool to navigate Western political landscapes, balancing respect for allies' expectations with his domestic and symbolic commitments. The meeting's outcomes remain uncertain, but the improved atmosphere may facilitate further dialogue. However, Trump's alignment with Russian positions and his unpredictable stance could complicate peace efforts, making Zelensky's image management all the more critical.
What the papers say
Gustaf Kilander of The Independent highlights the personal exchange between Zelensky and right-wing reporter Brian Glenn, noting the latter's apology for previous criticisms and the lighthearted banter that followed, which "loosened up that moment in the Oval Office." Business Insider UK emphasizes the strategic impact of Zelensky's attire, quoting fashion consultants who argue that dressing formally "can earn credibility and keep the focus where it belongs," with Zoë Hennessey stating the change "helped Zelenskyy gain some favor."
The South China Morning Post provides broader diplomatic context, describing how Zelensky's fashion choice was part of a wider effort to woo Trump, who has shown skepticism about US support for Ukraine and admiration for Putin. It also notes the presence of European leaders supporting Kyiv and the training Zelensky received on dealing with Trump.
SBS reports on the White House's advance inquiry about Zelensky's outfit and the commissioning of a capsule wardrobe by a Kyiv designer, underscoring the deliberate nature of Zelensky's sartorial shift. It also details the warmer tone of the meeting compared to February, despite ongoing tensions and unresolved peace talks.
The Independent's Holly Baxter offers a critical view of the meeting's dynamics, highlighting Trump's focus on his own agenda and his disparagement of President Biden, contrasting with Zelensky's attempts to discuss the war's human toll. The Mirror and NY Post focus on the media exchange about Zelensky's attire, with the Mirror noting Glenn's relationship with Republican Rep. Marjorie Taylor Greene and the political undertones of the questioning.
Together, these sources illustrate how Zelensky's clothing became a proxy battleground for respect, image, and political leverage in a fraught diplomatic encounter, reflecting broader tensions in US-Ukraine-Russia relations.
How we got here
Since Russia's 2022 invasion, Zelensky has favored military-style clothing to symbolize Ukraine's wartime status, refusing to wear suits until the conflict ends. His February 2025 White House visit sparked criticism from Trump, Vice President JD Vance, and right-wing media for his attire, contributing to a tense meeting. Ahead of the August 2025 meeting, the White House inquired about Zelensky's outfit, signaling its diplomatic importance.
Go deeper
- Why did Zelensky change his attire for the White House meeting?
- How did Trump react to Zelensky's new look?
- What impact does Zelensky's fashion choice have on diplomacy?
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