American writer and journalist, LA Times contributor; former OC Weekly publisher/editor
Californios has earned its third Michelin star, becoming the first Mexican restaurant worldwide to reach this height. Chef Val Cantú and his 40‑person team are celebrated for blending Mexican tradition with California ingredients, a move Michelin inspectors say crosses borders without losing identity. The accolade comes amid a broader rise in recognition for Mexican cuisine, set against tightening immigration enforcement.