Everest dominates headlines: record summit numbers, base-camp permit drama, and tough ice walls delaying climbers. Sagarmāthā/Qomolangma, tallest peak, sits on Nepal-China border.
Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at age 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. His mountaineering achievements and leadership at REI made him a prominent figure in outdoor and climbing communities. He was also known for his friendship with Robert Kennedy and his pioneering spirit.
A large ice serac has blocked the route to Everest's summit, delaying climbers' attempts. Icefall doctors have deemed it too risky to pass, and authorities are waiting for it to melt or collapse. The blockage has shortened the window for the spring climbing season, impacting hundreds of climbers and guides.
This month Nepal has seen a record single-day peak of climbers summiting Mount Everest from the south side while China has kept the northern route closed. An 18-year-old Australian has become the youngest Australian to reach the summit; veteran Sherpas have set new personal records. Several climbers have died this season and a dangerous serac and icefall conditions have delayed the route.
A U.S. team led by Sergio Gor has tested a home-built Alta X Gen 2 drone to ferry oxygen, ladders and gear to Camp I on Everest, but Nepal’s Home Affairs Ministry has refused a flight permit over drone procedures and security concerns. The test, which aimed to compare with DJI FlyCart technology used by Nepal’s AirLift Technology, has not proceeded.
Nepal has issued a record 494 permits for foreign climbers this season, with more than 900 people believed to have reached the summit this spring. Sherpa guides warn that numbers are creating traffic jams and safety risks, as China’s closure of the Tibet route shifts climbers to the Nepal side. Weather is warming, increasing hazards along the Khumbu Icefall.
A Nepali guide, Dawa Sherpa, has been found alive six days after he went missing descending Mount Everest on 29 May. He has been airlifted to a Kathmandu hospital with frostbite after a cleanup crew found him crawling near the Khumbu Icefall. His family had already begun funeral rites and have accused his employer of delayed search efforts.
Dawa Sherpa, 57, has been found alive after a weeklong disappearance on Everest. He was rescued near base camp with frostbite and dehydration; his family has filed complaints against his employer over delayed rescue efforts as Nepal’s mountaineering department reviews the incident.